It often happens that a “basic” Chianti Classico is better than a Riserva or a Grand Selection: it is enough that different vintages are involved for this to happen.

For the same reason, the same situation can occur, albeit less frequently, in Bolgheri (see, just this year, the Bolgheri Rosso 2018 compared to the "Superiori" 2017) or in Montalcino, where there are excellent producers with Red and less convincing with Brunello. But it is very rare that the hierarchical exchange between Nobile and Rosso takes place in Montepulciano. You don't have time to think of such an eventuality that you realize, sifting through the tasting notes of this season, that Rosso di Montepulciano Dogana 2018 turned out to be the best of the wines of Palazzo Vecchio. And not for the Nobile's demerit but simply because the Customs is really good, among the best of the type.
However, it may be that it is only a first sign of renewal and growth of the company, possibly ready to surprise us with its future releases, of any wine produced. We will see, with curiosity and a certain amount of confidence.

Ernesto Gentili