If there is a company of the Nobile di Montepulciano for which we can use the term terroir, it is Palazzo Vecchio. The red clays of Valiano, enclave beyond the bottom of the Chiana valley, give the wines a very particular character: volume on the palate, grit in the tannin, a touch of earthy and blood in the aromas. This year the Nobile di Montepulciano 'MAESTRO' is a clear example of this: on the nose the ripe blackberry marries a pretty withered violet; in the mouth the adequate acidity will completely relax an important body. The Riserva is more subtle because of the vintage, well designed, for now a little marked by the wood. Rosso di Montepulciano "DOGANA" has a beautiful expressiveness of fruit on the nose and tannin extracted with care.
It often happens that a “basic” Chianti Classico is better than a Riserva or a Grand Selection: it is enough that different vintages are involved for this to happen. For the same reason, the same situation can occur, albeit less frequently, in Bolgheri (see, just this year, the Bolgheri Rosso 2018 compared to the "Superiori" 2017) or in Montalcino, where there are excellent producers with Red and less convincing with Brunello. But it is very rare that the hierarchical exchange between Nobile and Rosso takes place in Montepulciano. You don't have time to think of such an eventuality that you realize, sifting through the tasting notes of this season, that Rosso di Montepulciano Dogana 2018 was the best of the wines of Palazzo Vecchio. And not for the Nobile's demerit but simply because the Customs is really good, among the best of the type.
However, it may be that it is only a first sign of renewal and growth of the company, possibly ready to surprise us with its future releases, of any wine produced. We will see, with curiosity and a certain amount of confidence.